gaboze-pocaio/round-2

This is the second official release of the Gaboze Pocaio, now with 2.6" screen and brightness control

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Where Can I Buy One

You can purchase an assembled Gaboze Pocaio - Round 2 on Tindie

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This is it!

Based on the popularity of the original Gaboze Pocaio and it's many updates. We have taken the Gaboze Pocaio - Plus Edition which featured the 2.6" TFT (ILI9342) and added a few more features

Project Code Name: 'Play It Again'

Introduction

Do we need one?

Features

Things you can find on this kit

• 2.6" TFT LCD
• USB peripheral support for 3.3v accessories (ie: keyboards)
• Brightness Control Thumbwheel
• Volume Control Thumbwheel
• Power LED - 3mm diffused
• New Conductive Pads
• Through Hole Raspberry Pi Zero Mounting Header
• Battery Charger (TP4056 Module)
• Headphone Jack (LM4857)
• Speaker capability (LM4857)
• Audio Amp (LM4857)

Top Side Features	Bottom Side Features

Platform Support:

• Emulation Station
• Lakka
• RetroPie

For Lakka implementation you can follow the 'paint by numbers' tutorial

New Feature Discussion

A little more behind the features

TFT

A new screen

An adoption from the Gaboze Pocaio - Plus Edition. The screen is now a 2.6" TFT, which fills the screen area of the Game Boy Pocket shell much better. No more resizing of the video driver output!

Brightness Control

Mechanical Adjustment FTW

Although there are many implementations of software based screen brightness adjustment. This model features a thubwheel, which means you don't need to worry about knowing how, or where to put the software based controls.

This also allows for using different Operating Systems and having brightness control out of the box

Through Hole Header

No more loose connections

With the new Raspberry Pi Zero mounting system using a through hole header, you will no longer loosen the pin connection if using an unregulated (non temperature) control soldering iron... ...yay

The short insulation on the header also means you can mount the Raspberry Pi flat against the headers

New Conductive Pads

Better response. Simply put

With a redesigned conductive pad, you can now have a better response rate to your silicon aftermarket pads.

USB peripheral support

No connection? No Problem

This is a 3.3V USB peripheral support, like keyboards (not the LED mechanical ones), older joysticks / gamepads (can you say retro pads!)

One of the most requested features is to be able to use your keyboard and terminal without having to connect to the network, SSH, SCP, or FTP.

Power LED

Domed and diffused

We replaced the surface mount power indicator LED with a through hole domed and diffused 3mm LED. This fits perfectly in the LED hole of the original and aftermarket Game Boy Pocket shell

What you need

Batteries not included

In order to complete your build. You will need:

• Raspberry Pi Zero W
• LiPo Battery
• Micro SD Card
• Gameboy Pocket Shell

Releases

Retro Pie or Lakka - You Decide

• Retro Pie
• Lakka

Direct Downloads

Retro Pie

• IMG
• GZIP

Lakka

• IMG
• GZIP

Get In Touch

Find us on the internet and lets chat

round-2's Issues

Correct/Best way to remove Raspberry Pi from Gaboze Pocaio?

Hey 32teeth.

I've seem to run in an issue with my device. Everything was assembled and running perfectly, but it seems somewhere in the process of closing everything into the case, something got shorted out. Still can't confirm, but I believe that the Pi I am using is dead now.

What steps should I take to remove this Pi from the Gaboze Pocaio? Everything is already soldered down of course.

What is the Correct Way to Install the 40-Pin Header and the Screen?

Hello.

I finally started to assemble the board. I was able to install all the components and the system booted successfully. But I found I've soldered the pin header directly, and the pins would penetrate to the other side of the board, together with the solder joints, the screen is impossible to fit on the board, so it's not possible to install the board inside the enclosure. I've read through all the resources about GabozePocaio, but it seems none of them mentioned how to solder the 40-Pin header for the Raspberry Pi mount.

I tried to use a wire-cutter but I found the exposed pins were too short to cut, I also tried to grind the pins out using a Dremel, but I found it's very easy to damage the solder mask in this process. Currently my result of the experiment is three dead boards.

My questions are:

1. What is the correct way to install the header and the screen? Is the pin header in the project BOM a non-standard low-profile version, or is there a special method used here to install it? I've reviewed the spec of TLW-120-06-T-D and I didn't find anything special, so I just used a generic pin header in my toolbox, is it possible that I've missed something?

2. How is the screen installed on the board? How is the proper clearance possible to achieve despite the solder joints between the board and the screen? None of the picture shows what's behind the screen.

Thanks again for creating this cool project.

Shutdown script

Would it be possible to add a shutdown script so when you flip the switch on the gaboze that it would trigger an automatic shutdown. Similar to howchoo's power button- https://howchoo.com/g/mwnlytk3zmm/how-to-add-a-power-button-to-your-raspberry-pi

I've done this on a PiCart I built, but with the board I ordered and parts that I will be ordering from digikey, I was hoping there would be a way to just add some sort of code to the existing hardware.
I'm super excited to dig into this build and really build something cool.
Thanks.
P.S. the speaker in the BOM file is actually being discontinued. Mouser still has some but digikey is out. I got a couple from the manufacturer to try. The LED is out too, but there is a replacement.

White lines across screen

I just finished building my gaboze, but I’m having an issue with the screen having white lines across just the top half. Any idea what the problem might be or if I’ve just got a bad screen?

Spot D1

Hey 32teeth,

First of all thanks for this awesome project! I was wondering which transistor should be on the D1 spot, circled in blue underneath the Raspberry Pi. And what is it used for?

Incorrect Case Modding Documentation for "Outside Bottom Half Contrast (Brightness)"

The case modding documentation for "Outside Bottom Half Contrast (Brightness)" is incorrect, currently a repetition of "Inside Bottom Half Supports", seems to be a copy-and-paste mistake. The brightness wheel and the SD Card doesn't fit and there's no information about how to proceed, please update with the correct documentation, thanks.

51p screen not available

Hi friend!
I hope you are good
I know that it has been commented, but I have two complete kits to assemble and I am missing the screen, there are only 37 pin screens.

I can't find a provider with 51p screens.

Could you help us to adapt the PCB footprint to the new screen 37 pin one?

Thank you very much!!!

Micro usb to Type C

Hi friend!

Could you please change micro usb to type c ,it will be easier to use ,

your use of tp4056 is very remarkable，

Cheap and convenient

Thank you very much!!!

51 Pin LCD Unavailable

The link provided in the bom is for a supplier that only has the 37pin variant in stock and I can’t find a 51 pin version anywhere.

Could you help with the wiring of the 8 pins required to connect up the 37 pin version?

AC-coupling capacitor C2 should be 220 nF, not 220 pF

What is the design consideration behind LM4875's input AC coupling capacitor C2? According to the datasheet, the AC coupling capacitor C2 and the input impedance R of LM4875 forms a highpass RC filter. At minimum volume, R = 110kΩ, which means the 3 dB point of the filter is 1 / (2 x π x 110 kΩ x 220 pF) = 6.576 kHz, in other words, the low frequency components, especially bass, is completely blocked by the capacitor. As the volume increases, the 3 dB point moves higher and higher, and cut off more and more frequencies at the lower side.

Personally, I found the audio quality of the headphone output jack is greatly improved after replacing C2 with a 0.1 uF capacitor.

What is the specific reason to use a 220 pF coupling capacitor here? Is it meant to avoid damaging the GPIO port of the Raspberry Pi when the capacitor discharges?

WSOD even when powered directly to the Pi

Just finished building the Pocaio Round 2 and I can't get passed the white screen. I've tried both the Retropie IMG and LAKKA. Also tried the troubleshooting guide you provided which said to remove the battery and plug power directly to the Pi and the green led blinks but still no dice. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time

Edit: I was able to SSH and test the ili9342 driver but still get the white screen
Edit 2: Reflowed the screen connections it's working now

Raspbian Jesse

Describe the bug
Jesse is no longer supported but the Pi Foundation, unable to update retropie or even sudo apt upgrade.

To Reproduce
Steps to reproduce the behavior:

1. sudo ~/RetroPie-Setup/retropie_setup.sh
2. You are greeted with: A warming message that Jesse is no longer supported and should be updated to stretch.
3. If you try and run the update script for retropie it gets "502 bad gateway...." for everything.

Expected behavior
Updates to be possible

Desktop (please complete the following information):
-Your retropie img

Additional context
Add any other context about the problem here.

PCB Specs / DIY Instructions?

Hello.

First, thanks for designing this awesome board for the community. I was impressed by it and was planning to build it at home by the end 2018. But today, I've just discovered the design of Round 2 is now available, so it seems the best option for me is to start directly with Round 2? However, the project wiki of GabozePocaio-Round1 has detailed information for building the kit from scratch at home, but currently there's no information for Round2.

Could you give me some quick tips on building it? Specifically...

• What are the manufacturing specs of the new PCB? Is it the same one found the Round 1?

• If I reuse the build instructions in Round 1, what are the differences that should be taken into account? I know I should order a new PCB and order the parts by referencing to the new BOM. But how about other things that should be noted when building it?

• How should be enclosure be modded?

Thanks.