teamgloomy/troodon-v2

Stock and updated config files for the Troodon V2

troodon-v2's Issues

E-Steps per mm are too high, leads to filament grinding

Out of the box, the e-steps are at ~432. This feeds way too much filament through and may create issues like filament grinding. (Config.g, line 38)
The value should be changed to e.g. 415 to make calibration easier. (I had to lower the value before trying to calibrate, because it fed way too much filament)

Description as shown in PrusaSlicer wrong, also shows as v1 with v1 bed sizes

Config screen shows 4 flavors of v1, and .1mm nozzle.
In the slicer profile itself, it has 310x310x400 vs. 350x350x330
And are the speed limits real/safe limits without shaping/mods?

High resonance noise on any kind of movement (might be position dependant in some cases)

There are a few points that exacerbate resonance and the created noise. Depending on the frequency, the noise can be quite obnoxious.
To combat this noise, you can only do a few things, but it will never go away completely, it only switches the frequency on which it happens.

You can try the following:

• Check if the acrylic panels are screwed in tightly, because they might vibrate with the frame creating a more annoying sound
• Lower / increase the motor voltage a bit while keeping the print speed the same
• Pinpoint the speed range, on which the noise is the loudest and try to avoid those speeds (for me it was around 60-70mms)

Z-Offset is wrong when starting a new print after turning off motors

When the motors are turned off, either by a print g-code, manually or by a timeout, the gantry drops a bit thus invalidating a previous G32 calibration -> any new print will probably print in the air.

Solution: Run a G32 calibration either before a print in the start g-code or manually.

I broke my config and didn´t backup the stock configuration (stock config included)

In case you somehow deleted your configuration or broke it in any other way, here´s an upload of the stock configuration. (only config, no firmware)

Stock_Config.zip

If you want to change the bed.txt and everything else to use the native firmware, like described in https://teamgloomy.github.io/troodon_v2_firmware_adjustment.html , then it is this archive.
Native_Firmware.zip (the firmware folder is representing the folder created after flashing the native firmware to the board)

After flashing the new firmware, the following firmware.cur file is placed on the root of the sd card.
FIRMWARE.zip

I accidentally deleted the menu files (thanks to no confirmation screen on right click delete....) and now I use the screen menu from https://github.com/jadonmmiller/UltimateDuetMenuSystem/releases

WiFi Module does not work (M122 reporting WiFi is disabled)

If QC fails, the firmware for the ESP32 WiFi module is not flashed thus rendering any wireless connectivity unusable.

To fix this issue, you need to run "M997 S1" either through Pronterface or by Putty while being connected via usb. (a .gcode file should work aswell)

Voltage of X/Y/Z motors is set too high

Out of the box, the voltage for the x/y/z drivers is set to 1800. This is close to the cap, that is supported and the motors might get too hot during a longer print. (Config.g, line 44)
Lowering the value to 1500 is a good starting point. Depending on the used speeds and other factors, you might want to increase this value.

Things to do, before/after following the build guide

After/Before following the build guide, quite a few things should/need to be done. (this is a non-complete list of the things I had to do or did myself)

Before:

• Check all the screws that are accessible on the base
• Open the bottom panel (while the base is sitting on foam) without using to much force pushing the base down
• Check all the screws on the different components
• Check if the SSR module has the cover placed on it
• Grease all the linear rail carriages, that are not greased yet (some might be pre greased, in my case I had to grease all of them)

After:

• Turn the build plate around and remove the plastic foil protecting the surface of the smooth PEI sheet
• Check, that the X-Carriage cable is behing the z-axis belt and not in front of it (cable would squish the belt, if it is in front of it)
• Check the toolhead for loose wires and missing zip-ties
• Check the X/Y-Belt tension (might be too high)
• Update the Firmware on the board as well as the display (according to the TeamGloomy tutorial, replace the board.txt aswell)
• Change the recommended settings for e-steps, motor voltage and everything mentioned in the tutorial
• Do a PID-Tuning for the bed, as well as the hotend
• Do a Gantry calibration and a bed calibration afterwards (creating a sensible heightmap)
• Check for bed imperfections (using a ruler on the bed in different orientations to check for gaps; remove the steel sheet for this, but do not forget to put it back afterwards!)
• Do the Z-Offset calibration for the nozzle-bed distance
• Adjust the extruder filament pressure

Overhangs and bridging are bad with filament that need strong cooling (PLA, TPU) on higher speeds

If you try to print PLA/TPU or other materials that need stronger cooling with higher speeds, the afterburner cooling solution is not pushing enough air to cool the material fast enough. This is an inherent flaw with the afterburner. (this issue does present itself even with open doors)

The only solutions are AFAIK:

• slow down the printing speed (no 5 minute nice looking benchies for you)
• change the toolhead solution to the stealthburner (involves some costs, wiring work, changed settings and a new motor)